Translator's Search for Mysterious Vineyard

Sally Pane, who has translated several Winemaker Detective mysteries, recounts her Paris hunt for destinations mentioned in Montmartre Mysteries, which came out this month.

Translator Sally Pane visits little-known Montmartre vineyard.

I recently made a “reunion trip” to Paris with my former college roommate, Carol, to reminisce about our college year abroad years ago. Having just translated Montmartre Mysteries by jean-Pierre Alaux and No¨el Balen, I was eager to visit some of the many sites mentioned in the book, particularly Rue Lepic, where the story’s wine merchant has his shop; the Bretonneau Hospital, where Benjamin Cooker is called in to revive the smallest vineyard in Paris; the famous Clos Montmartre vineyard behind Sacré Coeur; and the Lapin Agile, which held memories for the winemaker detective.

The scene where the wine merchant is asked by his tourist customers to point out the former addresses of famous people inspired me to look for some of them myself, homes of such luminaries as Picasso, Matisse, Toulouse-Lautrec, Renoir, Degas, Dalì, Monet, Zola… I found myself walking up Rue Lepic in the footsteps of Benjamin Cooker and his assistant, Virgile, past the home of Van Gogh and the Café des 2 Moulins, where some scenes from the movie Amélie were shot. The street used to be home to numerous windmills, and there are still two remaining. You also pass the studio of Modigliani [#7] and a square named after Jean-Baptiste Clément who composed the song Cooker refers to, Le Temps des Cérises. Although in order to see cherry trees, you’re better off visiting in April! Nevertheless, I was happy to find this street again and make the tortuous, not exactly torturous, ascent through this historic neighborhood.

Paris wine

Rue des Saules is another great climb up the butte to Sacré Coeur. Just like Cooker, we walked past the Lapin Agile. I had spent an entertaining evening in that famous cabaret in the past. I knew it had been a favorite haunt of struggling artists such as Utrillo, Apollinaire and Picasso, to name a few. Before translating Montmartre Mysteries, I didn’t know much about its prior history, like how it was formerly called the Cabaret des Assassins, and how it got its present name.

This is also the road that leads you past the Clos Montmartre, the small vineyard described by Cooker. As he explains, however, unless you make special arrangements, the only time you can visit is during the Vendanges de Montmartre which is the second weekend in October. For four days all of Montmartre puts on a celebration of the vineyard with food and wine tasting, music, dancing and more.

I was more fortunate with the Clos Bretonneau, which, although it has its own vendanges (harvest) festival in October as well, is accessible any time by simply walking through the front door of the Bretonneau Hospital at 23 Rue Joseph de Maistre. Charming and tiny, the hospital vineyard does not draw a tourist crowd—the receptionist did not even know it existed, but fortunately the janitor did. For a moment, I thought I had fallen for an imaginary destination on this scavenger hunt “Cooked up” [sorry!] by authors Alaux and Balen, but I was happy to discover the real thing. Once I stepped into it, I understood why they chose the unusual little gem as the backdrop to the mystery.